Comforting Granny Stripe Blanket [Free Pattern]

Crochet the Comforting Granny Stripe Blanket with your favorite cozy yarn or all your leftover scrap yarns for a fun color explosion! This blanket is a repetitive stitch pattern that works up quickly with Bulky weight yarn and a large hook. Finish this classic crochet blanket and curl up with a good book for a comforting way to chase away the cold!

This pattern is slightly different from my Straight Granny Blanket Pattern, because I wanted something with a tighter weave. My main reason for posting this pattern is because I wanted to make this blanket with a larger hook size. I’m not claiming to be the first person to ever come up with this, I’m just wanting to offer my version of how I’m making this blanket, and I hope you find it helpful! Pattern previously called “Hermione Granny Stripe” and has now been updated with new name, yarn, and other details as of March 2020!

Download an ad-free version of the blanket on Ravelry here  or on Etsy here for a low cost. Please note that the below pattern contains Amazon affiliate links.

COMFORTING GRANNY STRIPE BLANKET

FINISHED SIZE: 50”/127 cm wide by 62”/157 cm long

GAUGE: 10 dc and 6 rows = 4″/10 cm

HOOK: US Size J Boye Ergonomic crochet hook 6.00mm (Get a full set of Boye Ergonomic crochet hooks here.)

YARN: Lion Brand Homespun (98% acrylic, 2% other fibers; 6 oz/170 grams; 185 yards/169 meters per skein):

-6 skeins in color “Sierra” (MC)

-3 skeins in color “Barks” (CC1)

-3 skeins in color “Fiesta” (CC2)

-3 skeins in color “Pueblo” (CC3)

-3 skeins in color “Corinthian” (CC4)

-Or similar size 5 Bulky yarn in 5 colors: 1110 yards/1014 meters in MC, and 555 yards/507 meters in each of CC1, CC2, CC3, and CC4.

NOTIONS: Tape measure, scissors, yarn needle for weaving in ends

Learn to crochet with this book here.

NOTES: Gauge is not essential for this project, but if you use a different size hook or yarn, you may need more than the suggested amount of yarn. The pattern uses the traditional “Granny Stitch” with NO chains between each 3dc group. This gives the blanket a tighter fabric with smaller gaps. Chain a multiple of 3 + 2 to make your blanket bigger or smaller than pattern. Make sure to leave your ends at least 6″/15 cm long when changing colors to make weaving in ends easier. Also, you can carry the MC up the side and not cut each time since MC is used every 2 rows.

ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms): 

  • CC – contrasting color
  • ch, chs – chain, chains
  • dc – double crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • MC – main color
  • Rnd/Rnds –  round, rounds
  • RS – right side
  • sc – single crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sp, sps – space, spaces
  • st, sts – stitch, stitches
  • WS – wrong side

PATTERN:
With MC, Ch 125. 
Row 1 (RS):
 Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (124 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 1 dc in same stitch, *skip next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st (known as 3dc group here and throughout). Repeat from * across to last 3 sts. Skip next 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, changing to CC1 in last dc. Turn. (40 3dc groups + 4 dc; 124 dc total)
Row 3 (RS): With CC1, ch 3. Skip next st, and working between the skipped st and the 3dc group, 3dc group. Work a 3dc group between each 3dc group of the previous row across to the last two sts. Skip next st, dc in last st. Turn. (41 3dc groups + 2 dc; 124 dc total)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, 1 dc in between the first st of the previous row and the first 3dc group. Work a 3dc group between each 3dc group of the previous row across to the last 4 sts. Skip next 3dc group, 1 dc in between the last two st. Dc in last st, changing to MC in last dc. Turn. (40 3dc groups + 4 dc; 124 dc total)

Color pattern as follow:

  • 2 rows MC
  • 2 rows CC1
  • 2 rows MC
  • 2 rows CC2
  • 2 rows MC
  • 2 rows CC3
  • 2 rows MC
  • 2 rows CC4

Repeat Rows 3-4 following color pattern listed above until Blanket measures 60″/152 cm long or desired length, ending on a RS MC row. For the final row, With MC, Ch 1, sc in every st. Turn. Do NOT fasten off. Continue to Edging.

EDGING:
Rnd 1 (RS):
 Ch 1, (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in first st (this is the first corner), sc in each sc across top row. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in next corner. Sc evenly around entire blanket, working (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in each remaining corner. Join with sl st to first sc.
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 2 (does NOT count as hdc), hdc in same st as joining and each sc around, working 3 hdc in each corner ch-1 sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends with a yarn needle.

See more of my patterns in my shop and on Ravelry!

*Pattern for personal use only. Please do NOT distribute copies of this pattern and do NOT sell copies of this pattern. You may sell finished items that you make using this pattern, but you are required to credit the original pattern/designer as follows: Made using a pattern from Kountingsheep by Jenny Galusha-Luna: http://kountingsheep.com

*Please note this post contains affiliate links. This means I receive a small commission when you shop through the link at no additional cost to you. All opinions and pictures contained in this post are my own.

How I Kettle Dyed My First Roving

I have been wanting to try dyeing yarn and roving for a long time, so I picked up a bunch of Kool-Aid in different colors, pulled out some undyed Corridale roving I’ve had stashed away for awhile, and got to work. I looked up some different techniques online and decided to do kettle dyeing since it was the least messy option.

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First I picked purple (grape) and blue (tropical punch) because I knew that they would mix together well. I put 3 packets of each in two separate measuring cups of 2/3 cup of warm water and set aside. To prep the roving, I put two 2.5 ounce bundles in my crockpot with warm water. The biggest thing to remember is not to put the fiber through any extreme temperature change or it will start to felt.

I let the roving heat up on the “hot” setting for an hour in the crockpot covered. Then I took the purple and added it to the water first. The roving immediately starting soaking up the color. I carefully flipped the roving in the water (again, don’t agitate too much or it will cause felting) and then added the blue to where I could still see white. I gently pushed the roving back down into the water so it could get completely saturated with dye.

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After another almost 2 hours of heat-setting the dye on high in the crockpot covered, the dye was exhausted (meaning the water was clear and all the dye was soaked up into the fiber). I let the roving cool back to room temperature and then dumped the water and gently rinsed the roving in warm water. A quick squeeze in a towel and a few hours outside to dry, the fiber was done! 

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I call this “Royal Tuesday” and I was shocked by the color depth that I was able to get from just a few packets of Kool-Aid. I am excited to spin this up so I can see if I should keep dyeing fiber (I can guess the answer will be “yes!”).

Redo

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Several years ago I made the above pictured hat out of my handspun yarn, and as soon as it was finished, I knew it was the wrong pattern for the yarn. The complicated cables got muddled in the self striping sequence and the softness of the yarn didn’t lend well to the structure this hat needed. When I wore it, the hat constantly slid down my head and was too floppy. I loved the yarn but I didn’t love the hat.

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Fast forward to last week when I decided to frog the hat (and matching fingerless mitts, which also didn’t work for the same reasons and had developed a hole needing mended) and make something that I would love to wear. I knew a simpler pattern would help showcase the yarn, so I decided to knit a garter stitch hat instead. The finished hat is perfect now, sitting just right on my head and not sliding off, not too slouchy, and the garter stitch gives the soft yarn just the right structure it needs.

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The handspun was one of my most favorite ones ever so I couldn’t stand to have a finished object that I didn’t love to wear. Now I am super happy with the new hat and so glad that knitting can always be taken out and redone.